Primary purpose of cleansing has been to achieve cleanliness and freshness by removing oil, Dust, bacteria, and dirt from the face and body.
Skin hydration increases markedly during cleansing and the excess water evaporates off within 10 to 30 minutes after washing. As water evaporates at a rapid rate from the uppers layers, a stress is created in the skin and this is thought to be the origin of the after-wash-tightness perception. As the evaporation rate reduces to its normal level, the stress is relieved and the tightness disappears. These effects become even more acute under low-humidity and low-temperature conditions.
Three factors govern how Skin hydration changes during and immediately after washing:
All of these changes are influenced by the nature of the cleanser surfactant through its impact on the Skin proteins and lipids.
The cleanser used, the Solution of pH and temperature can further affect the skin proteins. Harsh cleansers have been shown to also remove more moisture from skin.
Continued daily use of cleansers that cause short-term damage can lead to skin dryness, scaling, flaking, erythema, and pruritus.
Skin Dryness, or xerosis, is more than just a lack of water in the Skin. Visual effects of dryness are manifested by whitening of the skin and the development of visible scaling. Dry skin is also physically tighter, more brittle, and less soft that moisturized skin. Brittle Skin can easily crack, leading to chapping and significant barrier damage.A continued increase in dryness may, however, lead to scaling, cracking and chapping, barrier breakdown and, eventually, to irritation.
Erythema and pruritus are essentially inflammatory responses of the skin when irritants, such as cleansers, penetrate into deeper layers of the Skin.
The first step towards mild cleansing is to minimize the deleterious potential of surfactants to proteins and lipids.
SLS (Sodium lauryl Sulfate) No Soap (Na Laurate/Cocoate) Alkyl Phosphate
SLES (Sodium lauryl ether sulfate) SCI (Sodium Cocoyl/lauroyl isethionate) CAPB (cocamido propyl betaine) Alkyl Sulfosuccinates Alkyl Sarcosinates
The main approach to minimizing visible signs of skin dryness and augmenting skin hydration has been to deposit lipids, emollient oils, and occlusive under cleansing conditions. Typical emollients and occlusive used in cleansing liquid formulations are vegetable oils (e.g., sunflower seed and soybean) and petroleum jelly. Washes containing a high level of emollient ingredients do deposit a significant amount of lipid and emollient material to the skin.
Several common skin disorders such as xerosis, dermatitis, psoriasis, atopic dermatitis, acne, rosacea, and photodamage are linked to varying levels of barrier dysfunctions. Skin cleansing is an essential part of skin care.
In cases of acne: cleansers should contain salicylic acid, glycolic acid or benzoyl peroxide.
In cases of xerosis, dermatitis, psoriasis, atopic dermatitis we should use cleansers that are mild avoid SLS containing cleansers. Cleansers should contain agents like colloid oatmeal, glycerin; ceramides that cleanse and help retain the body moisture at the same time.